African Grey Parrots – Breeding

African Grey Parrots – Breeding

African Grey parrots are often found having huge social circles. They not only have an interesting diet but also have a slightly different way of breeding. There are no hard and fast rules as to how one is expected to breed these birds since every individual has their own way of dealing with them. However, in order to ensure that one is on the right track, it is better to have some information.


First and foremost, one needs to know the difference between their hen and cock birds. A case has been reported by an animal shop owner who stated that a rather angry customer came back to the shop with his pair of birds complaining that there has been no breeding progress, despite the fact that he had taken good care of their diet. When the shop owner checked the birds, it was revealed that both birds were actually male. To avoid an issue like this, it is essential that the distinction between the male and female birds is clear to the pet owner. People in the bird business will often give customers a pair of birds who are familiar with the breeding process. They are often known as adult birds. The good thing about adult birds is the fact that they are familiar with each other. On the other hand if a person tries without proper knowledge and training, the breeding process can take up to years in African Gray Parrots. This being said leads one to the housing process.

Breeding Alexandrine or Raw Parakeet

Breeding Alexandrine or Raw Parakeet

In nature, the breeding season begins in November and lasts until April. They settle in small colonies and few pairs build nests on the same tree.They build the nests in old, dead palm-trees and in softer trees. The breeding of Alexandrine Parakeets is not difficult.In shelters, the pairs are kept separately. Breeding begins in February, and if the winter is harsh, it could begin a month later. An aviary consists of two parts, both the outer and the closed winter part which should be spacious. The aviary for one pair of these parrots should be of 0.70-1 m (28-40 in) of width, 2 m (78 in) high and 2-3 m (78-118 in) long. The nest placed in the sheltered part of the aviary should be put at the very top. The appropriate dimensions of the nest are 40 cm (16 in) in width, 60 cm (24 in) in length, the exit hole of the nest is 9-10 cm (4 in). At the bottom of the nest, one can put 5-7 cm (2 in) of large wood chips.

The Alexandrine Parrot

The Alexandrine Parrot

 

Introduction

I like my man slender and tall. My two dogs are also slender and tall. So it comes as no surprise that my favourite bird is the largest and the longest of the Asiatic parrot family – the Alexandrine Parrot Psittacula Eupatria. My husband, George, and I have been successfully breeding this species for over 20 years.

Description

The Alexandrine Parrot – a large bird with a streamlined body and elongated central tail feathers – is an excellent example of a good-feathered bird. The cock has predominately green plumage, a rose-pink collar, a purple-red patch on the wings and a broad black stripe across the lower cheeks. The tail is blue, tipped with yellow. The mandible is red with a paler tip. The iris is pale yellow, the legs grey-green. The hen is duller in colour, lacks the rose-pink collar and the black stripe and has a shorter tail. Juveniles are similar to the hen. The cocks do not attain adult plumage until they are 2-3 years of age.

Lovebirds and their history

Lovebirds and their history

Lovebirds were a largely unheard of species outside of Africa until Europeans wrote in books and journals about these strange brightly colored birds they had seen while in Africa.

The first Lovebird to be described in detail was the Red Faced lovebird in the early 1600, it was also the first lovebird to be imported into Europe during the 19th century since it was found in more widely in the wild than any of the other species.
Other species of lovebird were imported soon after the Red Faced except the Peach face which was thought to be variant of the Red Faced, although the Peach Faced lovebird was acknowledged by the British Museum in 1793. It wasn't until 1817 that the Peach Faced lovebird was recognized as a separate species of lovebird and were imported into Europe in the mid 1800's

Breeding Lovebirds

BEFORE YOU BEGIN
The most important thing to consider when deciding to breed lovebirds is how much time and energy you have. Breeding birds need to be in top condition; they cannot be on seed-only diets or be forced to live in dirty cages. They must be supplied a healthy diet with lots of variety. A good pellet mix like Dr. D’s or Mazuri and a high-quality seed mix like Volkman are only supplements really. It’s the fresh vegetables and grains that will make your birds healthy enough to lay fertile eggs and raise strong babies.

Fischers Lovebirds (Eye-ring Lovebirds)

Fischers Lovebirds (Eye-ring Lovebirds)

 


The Fischer's lovebird (Agapornis fischeri, synonym Agapornis personata fischeri) is a species of bird in the parrot family.They are named after German explorer Gustav Fischer.

Distribution:

They are native to a small area of east-central Africa, south and southeast of Lake Victoria on the inland plateaus of northern Tanzania. In drought years, some birds move west into Rwanda and Burundi seeking moister conditions.In captivity, they are easy to keep and breed freely. They can be bred in large colonies. They were originally discovered in the late 1800's, and were first bred in the United States in 1926. 

Description:

They are one of the smaller lovebirds, about 14-15 cm in length and 42-58 g weight.
Fischer's lovebirds have green backs, chests, and wings, their necks are a golden yellow and as it progresses upward it becomes darker orange. The top of the head is olive green, and the beak is bright red. The upper surface of the tail has some purple or blue feathers. A. fischeri has a white circle around its eyes. Young birds are very similar to the adults, except for the fact that they are duller and the base of their beak has brown markings.

What To Do When You Think Your Bird Is Sick Or Injured

What To Do When You Think Your Bird Is Sick Or Injured

Call your veterinarian immediately for these conditions:
1) Bleeding that cannot be stopped is a true medical emergency. Too much blood loss will weaken the bird and may lead to death. Apply direct pressure to the site of bleeding if at all possible and immediately transport to your veterinarian.
2) Minor bleeding such as that in a broken toenail can be controlled with styptic powder or cornstarch, but avoid packing this into wounds, feather follicles or mucus membranes because caking the area with these products may damage tissues and lead to an increased difficulty in treatment.
3) Blood in vomit or feces is never normal and indicates a need for an immediate veterinary visit to determine cause and treatment.
4) Burns are a common accident, especially with free-flighted birds. Cool the burned area with cool water and transport to your veterinarian. Do not apply any ointments or butter on burned areas. These lock in the heat and increase damage to tissues. Butter increases the risk of infection.